At this point, DCC has actually been around for awhile, but there are those who may be a little intimidated by new technology, and of course there is no need to assume this type of “mind set.”  Digital Command Control is made to enhance the modeling experience rather than detract from it.  What is it exactly?  In a word, it allows the modeler to run multiple trains simultaneously, and to make things even more interesting these trains can be run on different tracks.  For many modelers, the days of running a single train on one track came to and end with the introduction of DCC, and if you’re new to the hobby you may want to consider this more advanced way of powering your trains with this technology as well.

 
To make this change for powering your trains research will show that the benefits far outweigh the previous form of power which was AC/DC.  With DCC the model railroader now has the benefit of adding more handlers or operators, the system provides more consisting features, and DCC also offers easier access to more advanced programming options.  These features will then allow the hobbyist to perform multiple functions simultaneously, which ultimately results in a more realistic presentation of your trains as well as a more enjoyable operating experience.  You’ll be able to control the speed of each of your trains individually, along with their lighting, and the direction that you want them to move in.  Moreover, realistic operation is further enhanced by DCC through the inclusion of sound, and you’ll be also be able to make your locomotives release smoke just like their prototype version.

Each of the functions which you can now add to your railroad are performed through using a throttle which has several control buttons that are located on a numeric control pad.  When the operator makes a decision related to how they want an individual train to perform, a signal is then sent to a digitally controlled command station, and then this signal is then to sent to the tracks.

A key or important component of any Digital Command Control system is the mobile decoder, which is how the system communicates with each of the locomotives on your layout.  Every engine on a layout requires a decoder.  Today, most manufacturers include a factory installed decoder in their locomotives, but there are those who even now do not.  You may also have older locomotives which may not have a decoder, and the good news is that decoders can be purchased from a variety of different manufacturers and can be installed with a minimum of labor.  If you have a locomotive that does not have a decoder and are planning on making the switch to DCC, you have two options for dealing with this issue.  You can research how to do the installation yourself, or you can send your locomotive to a company who offers installation services.  For a small fee, there is a company called Aztec who will do the installation for you.

Finally, there are a number of companies who sell DCC systems, and most can be found online, and of course, your local model train hobby shop will carry this type of  system as well.

  

As you may have already deduced, adjusting a ground throw is a pretty easy task.  What is of importance is that the points need to push firmly or securely against the stock rail when you throw them for a certain direction of travel.  The problem here is that your train will split a switch if the   points come up short.  There are a number of reasons related to why this may happen, and the more common reason is the result of ballast or some other type of debris that may have worked loose which could have possibly worked its way into the point.  You can check for this problem by removing the ground throw and then by sliding the throw bar manually or by hand.  If you can see that the points are not seating properly to the stock rail, this confirms that either some ballast or dirt is not where it should be.  

There is also a possibility that the debris may not be visible to the eye as it may be wedged alongside or under the throw bar.  In spite of the challenges this may present for the removal, the best approach is to use air to get the job done.  This of course will require the use of some type of air compressor while you work the throw bar in a back and forth motion.  Make sure that you do not use a high level of air pressure when doing this.  If, in fact, this technique doesn’t work, you should then try moving the throw bar back and forth.  Eventually, the foreign material will work itself free.  There is also a possibility that the debris may have worked it’s way into the ground throw mechanism.  If this is the case, you’ll have to remove it the old fashioned way and pick it out by hand.  In any case, after you remove the debris you can then reinstall the ground throw.

There is one other possibility for your source of trouble, and that may be that your ground throw simply needs to be adjusted.  If so, just move it in the proper direction and secure it once again.  

Where adjusting your points or ground throw is a relatively uncomplicated process, the reverse is true when it comes to adjusting and maintaining a remote turnout mechanism. The reason for this is because you going to have to deal with electrical, mechanical, or a pneumatic mechanism.  Again,  if your experiencing issues with the point throw, you should disconnect the throwing mechanism and then check the points and throwbar for foreign materials.  If this is the case follow the recommendations which were previously described.  The next thing you should do is inspect your source of remote power.  If electricity or air is actually not reaching the mechanism you need to check your power source or possibly your control panel.  If these two are working properly, then take a look at the mechanism itself.

Before adjusting a mechanical throw you’ll need to determine what type it is.  It doesn’t really matter if you’re using a choke cable or a lever type mechanism because there should be a type of adjustment to lengthen or shorten the linkage.  By using this adjustment you’ll be able correct any point throw problems.

How To Adjust Mechanical Remote Throws

These are typically located below your layout so it is important to insure that nothing interferes with the linkage such as wiring and other types of layout components away from your mechanical throws and make sure that these other items are properly secured.

Try to avoid getting oil in any parts that move or slide.

Always remember to use a light touch when operating these type of remotes.

Electric Motor Controls

Dealing with this type of control is much more challenging because there are several different ways for throwing points.  More than one model railroader uses the Atlas twin coil switch machine and most likely because it comes standard or can be added to their line.

Where these are mounted on a layout is of little importance as the real problem involves the fact that there is little that the average modeler can do to adjust them.  The reason for this is because the working components are enclosed and the cover is secured with rivets.  If something does work its way into this type of component the only thing that you can do is remove the unit and work it manually in an effort to dislodge the debris.

As model railroader gains experience they’ll most likely move beyond the standard snap track turnouts and there are there are a number of different types of switch machines and mounting options which are available to choose from.  Whichever the modeler selects is strictly a matter of personal preference.

Many manufacturers build there own versions of the twin coil switch machine and can be mounted under the layout itself.  The better of these of have much sturdier components and have a way to adjust the throw bar linkage.  There is a drawback with this type of machine because most will move the points in a quick and sharp snap which may loosen stock rails and knock point or stock rails out of their standard adjustment.

With that said, its good to know that there are a handful of slower moving switch machines that actually move the points more slowly, which is more typical of a prototypical machine.  This slowness is much easier on the truck structure.  

There is also a type of switch machine that uses air to throw the points.  The chief benefit with this type of machine is that it allows the modeler to throw turnouts with out running wires.  The drawback is that air lines must be run instead.

Keep in mind that whatever type of machine you decide on, each will have it’s own specific maintenance requirements, but the manufacturers will most likely support these machines with replacement parts.

If you are new to model railroading you may not know what a point is and the following description will be helpful:  Points are sections of rail whose function is to guide the train you’re running from one track to another.  Characteristically, they are varying lengths of rail that taper off to an almost knife-like edge or point.  This point is then held against the outside rail of a turnout, and the sharp edges perform the function of guiding the wheels away from the stock rail.

This is how points continue to work:  Every normal turnout has two points which are held or separated at a proper distance apart by the throw bar.  The throw bars sole purpose is to hold the point in the proper position, which then allows the train to pass through the turnout in whatever direction it is set.  The modeler can either choose to throw the points by a hand throw or a remote control of some type.

How turnout points are adjusted is the most important issue, and there is more than one adjustment which must be made.  It is important to remember that no one adjustment is more important than another.  You must also be aware that each point must fit snugly against the stock rail when the turnout is thrown in that direction.  If the points do not fit as they should, the result will be potential derailments.  

Having said all of this, model railroaders should also be aware that manufacturers deal with this point rail or stock rail contact in one of two different ways:  They either include a slight notch in the stock rail so that the point fits into the notch, or they leave the rail as it is.  If they opt to do this, they will choose to shape the point rail so that it fits closely alongside the stock rail.

Another important consideration is that the tip of the point should be as sharp as possible, and if it is not, you should then take the matter into your own hands, and sharpen them yourself.  The best tool to use for accomplishing this is a needle file.

One other thing which you should consider is that common dirt or a piece of ballast can work its way between the two rails which will prevent a tight fit.  Because this can occur it is then necessary to check for this issue and take whatever appropriate action is necessary to remove the dirt or ballast.

If the opposite or open point does not maintain the correct clearance between itself or the stock rail this problem will also result in derailments as well.  Your best bet to deal with this issue, and in particular because the NMRA actually doesn’t have a recommended practice for this, is to use the wider spacing flangeway nub on the NMRA gauge, and in so doing the wheels will then clear adequately.  Typically, the commercial type of point rail will vary, and because of this it is necessary to determine exactly how yours are wired.  If your turnouts are wired with the point rails connected to the frog, it means that both point rails are the polarity of the point rail in contact with the stock rail.  

This then means that the open point is the opposite polarity of the nearby stock rail.  An electrical short can occur if there is only a minimal clearance for the wheels receiving electricity from the stock rail because they may brush the opposite polarity point.  If you have a commercial turnout there really isn’t any easy way to adjust the spacing.  The only alternative is to modify the throw bar or create a new one.

Another source for problems is the pivot point of the point rails.  If you haven’t noticed, there is no pivot point or hinge on the prototype.  The prototype are continuous and are actually bent to move the points.  You’ll also discover that just about all commercial turnouts have some form or type of pivot.  A few of these work well, but others do not, and this can cause gauge problems.  The hinge point should be smooth with no sharp ends.  If they are not in this condition the ends of the rail at the pivot point will move somewhat out of alignment.  Once again, this condition can cause derailments.  To correct this you can slightly file the ends of the joint to remove the square end, and doing this will prevent the wheel flanges from catching the corners.  You’ll also have to tighten or adjust the hinge mechanism if the rail movement exceeds the track gauge tolerance.

With that said, you should also know that it is possible to tighten or adjust some hinges.

Additional Tips

For Cork Roadbed-Use nails or spikes whose length is long enough go through the cork into the more solid roadbed.  To avoid surface problems, use care when setting the nail or spike until you’re confident that the slack is not present.  At the same time you want to insure that the hinge cannot pivot easily or in fact that the rail is pulled down.

For Turnouts-If you are using a rivet as a hinge spot, try using track nails or spikes which are long and drive them into the middle of the rivet.  Next, push them into the roadbed to take out some of the slack.  

It is also important to insure that your point rails are of the correct gauge throughout their length when the turnout is thrown for its direction.  The most effective way to check this is with a NMRA gauge.

Another area which can present problems is the frog.  Given that there are no moving parts you’ll only have to insure that everything is secured and correctly adjusted.  Once again use your NMRA gauge to do this work.

A component of a model train layout which can be a source for trouble is the support structure below the track.  Most bench works are made from wood and it is also used to create sub roadbeds.   Changes in climate such as humidity and temperature can deteriorate wood, and with these changes comes a natural contraction and expansion of wood.  When this occurs, track work, even if it is carefully adjusted can be thrown out of alignment.  Some track issues are more than noticeable because they are evidenced by buckling or kinks which are obvious to the eye.

Conversely, more frequently, the changes in track alignment are less obvious, and are much more subtle.  The best advice one can follow is to check things out in advance or through a routine maintenance schedule that includes checking track work, rather than waiting until this type of problem presents itself while your trains are running.

This can be accomplished by regularly running a track gauge over the right-of-way which will assist in locating potential problem spots.  Because of this tools accuracy, you’ll be able to locate irregularities, and make the necessary corrections before they become an operational problem. 

It is best to use a three point gauge because it will slide continuously along your tracks, and will quickly find any deviances in your track.  Also, this type of gauge is rail-code specific, which then mandates that you purchase this tool at the correct gauge or gauges.  The one disadvantage of this tool is that they will not work over crossings or turnouts.  For these you’ll have to use the NMRA gauge.  If you’re working in N scale you’ll want to use a Micro Trains coupler because one side has a track gauge.  This is simply an option for N scale modelers, as the previously mentioned tools will work as well.

When inspecting your track with the three point gauge, you will more than likely encounter spots on your track which are tight.  This really isn’t anything to be worried about unless you lift the gauge off the rail to clear the spot.  If that is the case, use an NMRA gauge to check the spot.  You should adjust the track if the track gauge is to wide or narrow and exceeds the NRA tolerance.

The easiest type of track to adjust is hand laid track.  To adjust, just apply a necessary amount of pressure on the side of the rail, and then drive as many spikes as are necessary into the ties along the defective area until the gauge is correct. 

Where hand laid track is easy to adjust, commercial track is an entirely different situation, and this is because the rails are molded into a hard plastic tie strip.  What you’ll have to do to adjust the gauge on this type of track….is remove the molded on spikes, and whatever plate detail that is present down to the level of the bottom of the rail for the entire length of the irregularity. 

Do this with a no.17 Exacto blade or something similar.  Secure the rail in its proper gauge by using small spikes.  You’ll find that it will be necessary to drill small holes through the ties, since it is impossible to drive the spikes through the tough plastic.  You’ll want to use a three point track gauge to hold the rail to it’s proper gauge and drill your holes about every third or fourth tie right along the base of the rail.  Try to drill the size of the holes as closely to the size of the spikes as you can so they fit snugly.  This is essential if you are using a soft roadbed material such as cork or Homasote.

The first priority which must be achieved from the very beginning is a well constructed layout.  The model railroaders efforts to maintain their layout are all but wasted if they constructed their layout poorly and with improperly installed components.  This problem is easily avoided because there are an abundance of books which are available both online and offline to guide the modeler in the construction of their layout.

One could confidently say that model railroaders take great pride in the appearance of their layouts, and also develop maintenance schedules to avoid potential future problems.  Unfortunately, the most conscientious of railroaders eventually develop some sort of unwanted problem.  Parts or components which are installed simply wear out over time, and the modeler must then decide to replace or repair the part.  Most often it’s best to elect to do the latter.  With that said, one must still consider whether this is the best choice which is done by considering the cost for repairing a faulty component versus simply buying a new part.  Time must be taken into consideration as well.  Is it cheaper to buy a new part or repair the old one?  In some instances time and cost isn’t relevant as would be the case with a worn out turn out point.  The part may not be that expensive, but if the scenicking  is completed with ballast and other types of scenery which have been added to the layout, the best option may be to go ahead and repair the worn out part rather than disturb the surrounding scenery elements.

Keeping Your Layout Clean

Your layout’s environment is a controlling factor in determining how often you will have to take measures to keep your layout clean and dust is your worst enemy.  If possible, when selecting your layout room it should be one that is climate controlled and the room should only be used for model railroading.

If, in fact, an environment like this is not available, and you have a small layout you may want to consider covering it with a plastic drop cloth when not in use.  These type of drop cloths are typically made of thin material which will prevent damage to your layout, and better yet they only cost a few dollars.  If you have a larger layout you can invest in more plastic sheeting which will accomplish the same goal for this type of layout as well.

Basements are one of the more popular choices for model train layouts, and can be a huge problem because of how the high level of dirt which filters down through the overhead floor.  A solution to this problem would be to install some type of ceiling installation such as drywall. plywood, or paneling.  If this type of measure is unaffordable you may want to purchase polyethylene plastic sheeting and staple it to the ceiling.  If your layout room has a concrete floor which most basements have, you may want to cover it with carpeting or linoleum to hold dust down.

Always keep in mind that dirty track will always lead to problems.  This is especially so if your using a Digital Command Control system.  It is always a good policy to clean your track when you clean your locomotives wheels as this only makes good sense.  If your wheels are dirty they will transfer dirt to your tracks and vice versa.

The signs and symptoms for dirty tracks include excessive sparking between the locomotive wheels and the track, headlights that flicker, hesitation, jerking, and stalling.  If any of these conditions are present you have a number of options to choose from for ways to clean your track and they include the following:

1.  You have the option of manually cleaning dirt off your tracks by using an eraser type cleaning block.  One of the more popular of these types of cleaning blocks is called Bright Boy and is sold by Walthers.

2.  You can also clean tracks by using what are know as liquid track cleaners, and there are a variety of these which are available through various manufacturers.

3. Another choice is by purchasing a track cleaning car and there are a number of choices for these as well.  

Clean Your Scenery  

Don’t forget that the dust which ends up on your tracks also settles on your scenery, and it will coat everything on your layout.  Keep in mind that you can dust or clean hard scenery in the same way as you dust your structures.  However, its important to remember that any material or objects that are loose will be sucked off your layout along with the dust(if your using some type of hand vacuum or vacuum cleaner).  

Fortunately, foliage is pretty porous and has the ability to absorb quite a bit of dust before it begins to show, and this quality is actually an advantage.  Cleaning foliage is somewhat difficult, and one of the few options you have is directly related to how securely you’ve attached it to your layout.  If it is quite secure you can try taking a small brush and tap the foliage lightly to dislodge some of the dust that has accumulated.  You might also try misting your foliage with a little water from a spray bottle which will remove some of the outer dust and make the deeper dust less visible.  Using these methods is one of personal choice because there is always a possibility that damage may occur with items that are this fragile.

The scenery which is most challenging is water features which will require much more attention compared to anything else on your layout.  Not only will water features show dust, they will also show smudges and fingerprints.  Try using a damp cloth dampened with a mild detergent to remove these unwanted deposits.  Then follow by wiping the feature once more with a cloth that has only been soaked in water.

Cleaning Structures 

The one place where dust is really noticeable on a layout is on structures.  You should remove this dust by lightly brushing your structures with a small brush, and you can also try using your vacuum cleaner hose which should be done with care.

It’s important that you check the wheel gauge and trucks.  This should be done by using the NMRA gauge for your scale and also the practices which are recommended by the NMRA.  In so doing, you’ll avoid unwanted derailments and prevent bottoming out at turnouts and crossings.  Remember to check the entire truck assembly to ensure the best possible operation.  It is also important to check the weight of your rolling stock because it is very important for reliable operation.  Once again, follow the NMRA standards which are pertinent to the scale you’re working with.

Rolling Stock Maintenance

As previously mentioned in the opening paragraph of this article, rolling stock maintenance is not nearly as involved as it is with powered locomotives.  However, having said this it is important to give some thought to the care of your rail car fleet.  In general, most model railroaders give very little thought to maintaining their rolling stock, and deal with problems when they occur.  The problem here is that it takes more time to execute repair work than it does to perform routine maintenance, and often these problems happen because of a lack of maintenance.  Follow these easy to perform maintenance steps, and you’ll reduce operational problems significantly:

Keep Rolling Stock Wheels Clean

Frankly, it only takes a couple of minutes to clean the wheels on a rail car, and the time spent doing wheel cleaning relates more to the size of your fleet.  If its large, the entire project may only represent an evenings work.  Incidentally, cleaning your rolling stocks wheels is just as important as keeping your locomotives wheels clean.  If you don’t invest some time in cleaning your rolling stocks wheels they will absolutely soil your tracks.

The process for cleaning wheels involves wetting a piece of paper towel with WD-40.  Next, lay it across a piece of track.  

Quick Tip:  You may want to attach a few feet of track to a board or a cut piece of plywood as this will make the wheel cleaning task easier, and you will of course have it for future use.  The time invested in making this is time not wasted.  

Now, place the car on the track and push it back and fourth with very light pressure until you loosen and soften the dirt.  Continue to do this until no dirt appears on the paper towel.  Finally, run the car over a section of clean towel until you’ve removed all of the dirt and WD-40.  Simple as that and this process involves very little time.

Adjust The Wheels, Trucks, And Couplers

In order for your trucks to function properly they must pivot easily.  When making  gauge adjustments or any other adjustment make sure that you follow the standards which are set by the NMRA.

Repairing Rolling Stock

If you’re pulling regular routine maintenance on your railcars you will have a fleet of cars that run flawlessly, smoothly, and they’ll look great as well.

However, with any fleet of cars that are in use regularly damage may occur.  This damage can be caused by derailments, and it can also happen through careless handling.  Most often, cars are damaged the majority of the time because of the latter.

Fortunately, it is quite easy to reattach broken parts back in place the majority of the time.  You should deal with parts which have been broken on an individual basis.  Any added or cast-on part such as ladders, roof walks, or stirrup steps can be re-attached with liquid glue.  In some instances, you may have to purchase a replacement part if the damage is too severe.  This can be done by ordering a new part online from the manufacturer, or you may be able to purchase the part at your local model train hobby shop.  

If it is necessary to purchase a new part you will most likely find that it is difficult to get an exact match to the manufacturers original paint work.  You may want to try test painting a piece of scrap before painting the new part.  It may also be necessary to do some experimentation through mixing paints until you achieve an exact or close matching to the original paint.

However, to have the ability to do anything which is beyond routine maintenance you’ll need to learn how to take your locomotive apart.  You may have received or should have received an instruction sheet when you purchased your locomotive.  If you did not, than you’ll have to do a little investigative research to be able to determine how to remove the shell.

The first step is to remove the couplers.  Typically the couplers will have to be removed if they are mounted on the chassis or frame.  They are usually held in place with a screw, clip, or pin.  Ordinarily, with plastic locomotives some type of clip or tab holds the body in place.  If you refer to your instruction sheet it should present instructions regarding the disassembly of your locomotive.  

If this is not the case, the option to this is to take a look at the enlarged view of the locomotive.  This should give you the information your looking for about the location of the securing devices.  Incidentally, you may be able to find this information online which should be provided by the manufacture.  If in fact you did not receive an instruction sheet you may want to try corresponding with them to acquire a copy of this important document.

In any case, to remove the shell, you’ll want to gently pry the body shell away from the chassis, and far enough to clear the protrusions, which will then allow you to remove the shell.  

Your primary objective after removing the shell is to be able to access the mechanical components of your locomotive, and it is likely that you may run into a few road blocks before you are able to do so.  There may be circuit boards, lighting, or extra weights which you’ll discover are in the way.  Once again, you should refer to the exploded view of your locomotive to determine how to remove these components.

Once you’ve cleared everything out of the way, it’s time to remove the trucks.  Having done this you can now begin the necessary repair work on your locomotive.

Electrical Repair

When your locomotive will not run when you apply power the most likely problem is an electrical short.  With that said, the first thing to be determined is if power is actually reaching the locomotive.  To be able to do this you’ll have to remove the shell to be able to look for broken, loose, or connections which may have gone bad.  After removing the shell, place your locomotive chassis on the track and apply power.  Try moving wires a bit because this may uncover the previously described problems.

If that fails you should try removing, or in fact bypassing circuits and your DCC equipment.  You may discover that your locomotive will run just fine without these components connected, and if so, you’ve discovered where the problem exists.

There is also a probability that the motor may be the problem, and you can determine if it is by using jumper wires and by touching the motor terminals.  Once again, if the motor will not run you’ve unveiled the problem.  In this case, your motor has seen it’s life and will have to be replaced.

Mechanical Repair

One thing that many model railroaders are not aware is that mechanical problems are not caused by use.  Sadly enough, the root cause for this type of problem is abuse.  If you’re not pulling heavy trains…then the problem has occurred as the result of careless handling when the locomotive is off the track.  Almost every locomotive is made to last for many years of use.

It’s advisable to keep a close eye on children who may be somewhat rough with your trains even though the abuse is unintentional.

Again, the solution is to remove the shell so that you may inspect the drive train.  If you don’t see any obvious issues, try running the unit so you may check the drive shaft and to be certain that there are no problems with the wheels.  If you still do not see any visible problems, you should then remove the trucks from the chassis.  The trick here is to isolate the problem, and you can do so by pushing each truck by hand down a section of track to check for wobbling or binding.  If that doesn’t expose the problem, try running the motor with the drive shafts removed to check for binding or a bent shaft.

If you don’t know how to fix a part which is damaged the best thing to do is to simply replace the part.  Your local model train hobby shop will carry a supply of locomotive parts, or you can order what you need directly from the manufacturer.  If none of these suggestions work the only other viable option is to buy a new locomotive.

One thing which is helpful is although there are many different manufacturers of locomotives, almost all locomotives share the same components and are built in the same way.  To be able to maintain your locomotive effectively you should be familiar with what each of these components are.  They include exterior components, mechanical components, and electrical components.  Most manufacturers will provide you with a list of these components and you may also be able to access this information online.

When performing basic maintenance on your locomotive there are several things which you should check and they are as follows:

1.  Firstly, even if you’ve purchased a new unit you should inspect your locomotive, and this would begin by removing the body from the chassis so that you may look for obvious problems.  Where almost every manufacture does a great job of making their products, you should check to see that there are no loose parts, or if something was broken during shipping.  Next, check to make sure your locomotive was in fact lubricated.  Also, while the body is off, you should place your locomotive on the tracks and run it.  This will give you an opportunity to be sure that all of the moving parts are operating correcting.

2.  Next, check the wheel gauge….Here you want to check depth and fit of the wheel flanges in the notches which are provided.  Also, follow NMRA standards when doing this inspection.

3.  It’s also very important to check your locomotives couplers.  You should also do this by using NMRA standards.  Most importantly, check the height with the NMRA gauge.

4.  Finally, as previously mentioned test run your locomotive.

Routine Maintenance (Diesel)

Not unlike other similar machines which have parts that move, there is a need to perform maintenance from time to time to insure that it runs well.  Another factor to consider is the location of your layout, because this will play a direct role in how frequently and what type of maintenance you’ll have to perform.  For example, if your layout is located in a room of your home or in a basement that you keep clean, less maintenance will be required.  Conversely, if the area your layout is in is an area where there is a higher level of dirt and dust, the maintenance interval will be more frequent.

These are the more important things to do when maintaining your diesel locomotive:

1.  Keeping your wheels clean is important and should be done often.  The most expensive locomotive will not run well if it’s wheels are not clean, and this is especially important if you’re using a Digital Command Control system, as the signals are received by the decoder which is located inside of your locomotive.  Detecting problems is simple because you’ll notice that your headlight may be flickering, or your locomotive will stall or hesitate as it runs.

You can clean the wheels of your locomotive by removing or scraping the dirt which has accumulated with a wire brush or a knife.  If your not interested in doing this manually there are manufacturers who make something called a Loco Driver Cleaner.

2.  It is imperative that you lubricate all of your locomotives mechanical parts.  Keep in mind, that a small amount of lubricant is all that is necessary.  Your bigger problem is dirt which will accumulate over time in the lubricant itself.  This actually happens with any type of lubricant, and so the trick is definitely not to over do lubricating your locomotive.  You may have noticed that when your locomotive came from the factory it was overly lubricated, and the solution to this is fairly involved.  You see, the best way to deal with this is to actually take the drive train apart and start over.

3.  In some instances your locomotive will not run as it should even though you’ve been dependably checking and cleaning your wheels, and you have insured that your locomotive is properly lubricated.

To deal with this problem you just might have to do a little tweaking to your locomotive.  One thing you can do is to tear down your drive train which isn’t  all that complicated.  After you have taken your drive train apart, the next step is to wash all of it’s parts in a warm soapy water solution and then let them dry thoroughly.  While you take your drive train apart, you should check each of it’s components to make sure there are no problems.  Finally, re-lubricate the working parts with a thin film of lubricant.

You may have notice that your locomotive actually runs smoother as the result of a lot of use.  This is simply because the mechanism wears in.  You can help this along with a new locomotive by speeding up this process.  By applying a reasonably small amount of a product called Pearl Drops which is a dental product, to the gears of your drive train you should discover that your locomotive will run much smoother.  The trick here, is to run it for several hours after you apply the product.

Incidentally, if you own steam locomotives the maintenance requirements are much the same as for a diesel locomotive.

Dave from Michigan Toy Soldier does a great job in demonstrating how to create a water effect and information about the product he is using.  I think these videos will be very helpful……I’ve added a second video by Matt and Trevor who are also using Woodland Scenics Magic Water and these two guys do a great job as well……

For the best deals for Woodland Scenics Magic Water click here.

Additionally, there will also be a complete supply of things which you will require to create the scenery for your model train layout.  This will include everything from pre-made trees, people, different types of buildings and storefronts, cars and trucks, mountains and hills, road signs, billboards, and those signs which are seen at railroad crossings as well as road intersections.  Speaking of roads and highways……you’ll be able to buy these as well.

Not only are there products which are brand new, you’ll also discover that many model train stores also carry antique and vintage model trains.  Often, pricing for these items can be a little more expensive, but they can also be the perfect addition to your layout.  If this is something your interested in, and the store doesn’t have it in their inventory, the owner or one of his employees may be able to point you in the right direction.

If you are new to model railroading or even if you’ve been involved with this hobby for awhile many model train stores will provide “how to” seminars.  When you visit your local store make sure to look for a poster board where you’ll find these type of events posted.  The seminars the store presents may be the answer to learning about DCC or solutions to hard to solve wiring problems, and it’s an ideal way to meet other hobbyist who share similar interests.  It wouldn’t be the first time that a great friendship was started, and what better way is there than to make a new friend who enjoys what you do?

One more important benefit of visiting your local model train store is that the people who are employed in these type of stores are much more knowledgeable about model trains than those who work in regular hobby shops.  They can offer educated guidance and answer your questions based on years of hands on experience.  This is not only time saving, but in the long run will prove to be an effective way to save money.  Frequently, hobbyist have a restricted budget, and this is one other way to avoid costly mistakes.

Also, model train stores have mailing lists, and frequently have newsletters which will keep you abreast of what is happening locally in the model railroading community.  They’ll let you know where and when model train shows are occurring, and if there are local model train clubs which you may want to join. 

Finally, these type of stores are generally a great place to take your children or grandchildren to because they not only have interesting displays for there products, they will also have one or more model train layouts set up, and the store employees are more than willing to run a train or two for you, and explain the various features of the cars they are demonstrating.

One more thing which is just as important is the fact that almost all model train stores have an excellent inventory of books about this amazing hobby.  One way or another, you’ll be able to satisfy all of your shopping needs as well as find answers to your questions when you visit your local model train store.